I like the idea of sewing, but I’m not very good at it. There’s part of me that whispers, “you’re not good at it because you don’t sew very often” but there’s another part of me that’s whispering, “you’re not good at it because you’re doing everything the hard way” — kind of like trying to cook with dull knives and a cheap pan: possible, but unnecessarily difficult.
So today I’m trying to cut the fireman costume. Difficulty #1 is that I am using vinyl, and I don’t want to stick pins in it (I usually use millions of pins) because I don’t want to poke all these holes in the vinyl.
Difficulty #2 is that it’s a multi-sized pattern, and I am cutting one of the smaller sizes. I don’t want to cut right on that cutting line, because what if I want to use the pattern again in a larger size? So I’m alternating between folding the pattern back and tracing the cutting lines directly on the fabric. It is such a hassle. There has got to be a better way. Is this the kind of situation where tracing paper is called for? (I have never used that before; when my mom taught me to sew we used tailor’s chalk, which rubbed right off.)
I get really frustrated when I try to sew for myself. I have to do extensive alterations to my pattern — sizing up and grading, shortening, ease — enough to make practically a new pattern. Then I wind up getting confused when I cut, plus I have the multi-size pattern issue. Is there a good way to handle this? Is there a way to just trace my mutant pattern onto a new sheet of paper or something?
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Yes, yes, this is what you can use tracing paper for!
In a pinch, you can rub some soft sidewalk chalk on the back of the pattern (one piece at a time), trace it with a pen with the nib clicked inside rather than outside, then cut it straight away before the chalk has a chance to rub off.
Never sewed vinyl, but I can see your point about the pins. Would paper clips work to hold the pieces together? If not, I’d be doing some hand-basting about 1/4-inch from the seamline.
Back when I was a theater costumer, we were using patterns out of books. Obviously, you couldn’t cut it out so permanant patterns of the correct size were made out of kraft paper. You could use tracing paper (I like transfer paper and a tracing wheel) onto kraft paper so that you have something pinable, or just go directly onto the fabric. Although considering the shinyness of vinyl, maybe kraft paper than draw an outline of it directly onto the vinyl. You still have an intact multisize pattern, no pinholes, and even if you do the outline in marker, it’s part of the seam allowance and won’t be seen.
I’m about to get going on a fleece costume. Lint, here we come!
thanks for the tips! I ran right out to pick up some tracing paper and the little wheel and it went much better. (The vinyl has a felt backing.)
Sparki, I love the paper clip idea, and I think it will work great. Seeing as I only have a few days I want to skip basting if I can 🙂
Another question, if I may. I am so delighted with this new technology! Do you recommend tracing the pattern pieces (say, for little kids’ clothing) onto kraft paper, and then cutting from the kraft paper patter? Or just tracing from the pattern piece onto the fabric? Which works better for you?
How about when I alter patterns for myself? Do you think it would be a better approach to trace the basic pattern onto kraft paper and then do the alterations on the kraft paper?
About the child’s pattern – I hear you about multi-size patterns; you always hope you’ll get another use out of it. Trace the pieces in the small size by all means, but for mercy’s sake write the maker’s initial and the pattern number and size on each one, i.e. “S 1492 pants back sz 4”. It takes about two seconds to write and saves endless time and frustration later. Keep your traced pattern in a 6×9 manila envelope labeled with the pattern maker, number, and size; or store it in a quart-size zip-top bag such that the pattern number is visible; or pin all the tracings together and store them in the envelope along with the original printed pattern.
About patterns for you – when you get one to fit, lay it out onto brown paper and make a master copy, writing the maker, number, and piece decription on each piece. Then use it carefully and store it safely in a plastic or manila envelope. Choose a dress or blouse pattern size by the bust, which is the hardest measurement to alter; I’d leave pants patterns alone until I felt more confident about alterations. I’d been sewing for thirty years before I was able to whack a pants pattern into a shape that was comfortable and looked right. A book that I’ve found very useful – jammed with practical help – is “Life Is Not A Dress Size” by Rita Farro. Your library may very likely have it. Lastly, watch the Post (corner of page 2 or 3 in the Style section on Sundays) for the Hancock Fabrics ad for the week: it’ll tell you when they have patterns on sale for $.99 or $1.99. That’s the time for buying patterns.
One more thing – keep your eyes open when shopping at thrift stores. That’s where the patterns wind up when people clear out their closets. It feels great to get an unopened, unused pattern for 10 cents or a quarter.
I suggest keeping the pattern pieces in a ziplock bag (quart or gallon) with, if possible, a picture you have taken of the item.
I used to get great use out of paper gorcery bags to cut pattern pieces for kidstuff.
I am so glad that I am NOT sewing for Halloween this year! My biggest project was a Barney the dinosaur costume for my (then) 14 y/o son 9 years ago – the tail was a killer!
My just past teenage daughters sew their own Ren Fair and SCA garb – I think they are quite talented as they get most of their patterns off the internet and have to enlarge or shrink them. And then there is the problem of what to use for boning – the plastic stuff in just not authentic (daughter #3 got in trouble with her dad for filching some of his copper electrical wire….)
post a pic if you can.
Tips on zip-lock bags and thrift shops noted!
So Elinor, when sewing for myself, do you recommend doing the alterations on the pattern tissue, tracing the completed piece onto heavy paper, and then cutting using the heavy traced pattern?
Alicia, I have never sewed a historical costume, but it looks like fun. I was salivating over all the lovely patterns in the pattern books — medieval costumes, Civil War costumes…. A local fabric store has a special section with fabrics for sewing Civil War reenactor’s costumes(reenacting is huge around here.)
I’m too lazy to trace a pattern onto paper and then cut it out, then put it on fabric and cut again, lol, so I would trace right onto fabric. I’m always looking for short cuts.
I use cheap tissue paper to trace onto when I’m altering a pattern. If I sew for myself, I can never find a pattern that fits me just right. The last wedding I was in (way before kids), I measured size 12 chest, size 8 waist and size 10 hips. No, I wasn’t that well endowed — the dress was just designed for boyish figures. Anyway, since the dress had princess seams (gag me), I HAD to alter the pattern so it would look right, and I basically marked the points where I needed to be size 12 or whatever and then drew gentle curves to connect the dots. Then traced that onto tracing paper in case I did it wrong. Then I also cut the whole thing out of an old sheet and basted it together and tried it on to make sure I’d done it right — good thing I did becaus I ended up having to add a small gusset at the bust line and adjust the hip curve. It was just a mess! Lucky for me, though, I haven’t had much training in altering patterns. If I had, I probably never would have attempted it. I just sort of jumped in and said, “There has to be a way” and went for it. I am a very unorthodox seamstress, obviously. The dress turned out fine, though.
Another pattern I altered was for my niece’s first communion outfit. I couldn’t find a tunic top like she wanted, but I found a dress that was similar and basically sliced off the bottom and straightened the sides so that we got the tunic effect. Man, she’s getting ready for her Confirmation this spring already! And she’s already in a tizzy about her outfit, so we’re going to do something original for her because she despises the off-the-rack options available for her age. I’m suggesting a turn-of-the-century lady’s riding outfit — the idea of a vest with a high collar and velvet buttons seems right, topping a white blouse and a long straight, split skirt.
–Sparki
When trying to keep multi-sized patterns intact for future use with other kids, I always trace the pattern onto freezer paper (purchase a roll at the supermarket). You can see through it well enough to make a tracing — it is also heavy enough to use over and over again.
You know, I just buy a bazillion patterns when they are on sale for .99 cents and do not worry about that other nonsense.I guess because it may be sort of unrealistic that will use many of them over and over again.